How to Judge Furniture Quality: A Buyer's Checklist

Photos and price tags don't tell you how well a piece is built. A few minutes of hands-on checks will. Start with the tests that apply to everything, then use the checklist for the piece you're buying.

Five checks for any piece

  1. The wobble test. Push gently on a top corner, side to side and front to back. A well-built piece stays square; a weak one sways or creaks.
  2. Look underneath and behind. Hidden surfaces tell the truth: staples, hot glue, rough particleboard and unfinished edges are signs of cut corners. Good makers finish surfaces you won't see.
  3. Open everything. Drawers and doors should move smoothly, close fully and line up with even gaps.
  4. Ask what it's made of. Which parts are solid wood? What's the finish? Where was it made, and what's the warranty? A good maker answers without hesitation.
  5. Check that solid wood can move. Wide solid-wood tops and panels should be attached so they can expand and contract with the seasons. See our guide to why solid wood moves.

Bookcase

Good signs Red flags
Shelves at least 3/4" (19 mm) thick in solid wood or plywood, ideally with a solid wood front edge that stiffens them Thin MDF or particleboard shelves, or shelves already bowing in the showroom
Spans of about 36" (91 cm) or less between supports for 3/4" hardwood shelves holding books Wide spans with no middle support
Fixed shelves set into dadoes (grooves) in the sides; adjustable shelves on metal pins Shelves held by small plastic clips
A solid wood or plywood back set into the sides and fastened along its edges, which stops racking A thin fibreboard back held on with a few staples or nails
A wall-anchor kit included for tall bookcases No way to anchor a tall bookcase to the wall

Use our shelf weight calculator to check how a specific shelf will hold up.

Bed frame

Good signs Red flags
Solid hardwood side rails joined to the headboard and footboard with bolts or steel bed-rail brackets Rails held on by a few wood screws, or particleboard rails
A centre rail with legs to the floor on queen and king frames; many mattress warranties require one No centre support on a queen or king
Solid wood slats no more than about 3" (7.6 cm) apart, fixed so they can't shift Thin, bendy slats spaced far apart, which can void a foam mattress warranty
Silence when you sit on the edge and rock Squeaks or movement at the joints
A headboard firmly attached and a frame height that puts the mattress top near knee height A headboard that flexes when you lean against it

Sofa

Good signs Red flags
A kiln-dried hardwood or multi-layer plywood frame, glued and screwed, with corner blocks Particleboard, soft pine or a frame held together mostly with staples
The lift test: raise one front corner about 6" (15 cm) and the other front leg lifts almost at once The frame twists: one corner lifts while the other front leg stays on the floor
Eight-way hand-tied coils, closely spaced sinuous springs with tie wires, or quality elastic webbing Seat springs you can feel through the cushion, or webbing that already sags
High-resilience foam, usually 2.5 lb/ft³ (40 kg/m³) or more, wrapped in fibre or down; zippered covers Low-density foam that stays dented after you stand up
Fabric rated for about 15,000 double rubs or more; patterns matched at seams; straight, even stitching No abrasion rating available; loose threads or wavy seams
Legs bolted into the frame Legs that wobble or are screwed into a thin base panel

Sit for at least five minutes in your usual position. Check the seat depth and height suit you: most sofas have a seat 17–19" (43–48 cm) high and 20–24" (51–61 cm) deep.

Dining table

Good signs Red flags
A solid wood top attached with wood buttons, metal clips or slotted screw holes that let it move A wide solid top screwed tight through the apron, which can crack it
Legs joined to aprons with mortise-and-tenon joints or heavy bolted corner brackets Legs held on by a single bolt, or a table that racks when pushed
At least 24" (61 cm) from the floor to the underside of the apron, so legs fit A deep apron that hits your thighs
Legs, trestle or pedestal placed so chairs fit where you need them Legs that block a seat at each corner
A finish that resists water rings and warm dishes, and a clear answer on how to repair it A finish that marks easily, with no repair advice
Extension leaves that match the grain and colour, with pins that align them Leaves that don't sit flush or look different from the top

Use our dining table calculator to find the right size for your room.

Dresser or chest of drawers

Good signs Red flags
Dovetailed drawers, front and back Drawer boxes stapled or glued at simple butt joints
Drawer bottoms of plywood or solid wood set into grooves, not stapled on; solid bottoms fixed only at the back so they can move Thin hardboard bottoms stapled to the drawer's underside
Full-extension metal slides or well-fitted wooden runners, with stops so drawers can't fall out Drawers that stick, wobble side to side or tip down when open
Dust panels between drawers and a back fastened into the case An open case behind the drawers
An anti-tip kit, and a design that stays stable with a loaded top drawer pulled out No anti-tip hardware

Always anchor a dresser to the wall, especially in a home with children. Since September 2023, most freestanding dressers and chests sold in the US that are 27" (69 cm) or taller must meet a mandatory tip-over standard (ASTM F2057-23). Wherever you live, ask whether a piece meets it.

Dining chair

Good signs Red flags
Mortise-and-tenon or dowelled joints, with corner blocks under the seat Joints held only by screws or metal brackets
Stretchers between the legs, or a design that is still rigid without them A chair that racks when you rock it side to side
A seat 17–19" (43–48 cm) high, about 10–12" (25–30 cm) below the tabletop A seat too high for the table or too low for comfort
Legs that sit flat on the floor, with felt or glides A chair that rocks on a level floor
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