The Janka Hardness Scale for Furniture Woods

The Janka hardness test measures how well a wood resists denting. It records the force needed to press a 0.444" (11.28 mm) steel ball halfway into the wood. The result is given in pounds-force (lbf) or newtons (N). The higher the number, the harder the wood is to dent.

Janka hardness of common furniture woods

Species Janka (lbf) Janka (N) Hardness
Hickory 1,880 8,360 Very hard
Hard maple 1,450 6,450 Very hard
White oak We build with this 1,360 6,050 Hard
Sapele 1,360 6,050 Hard
White ash 1,320 5,870 Hard
American beech 1,300 5,780 Hard
Red oak We build with this 1,290 5,740 Hard
Yellow birch 1,260 5,600 Hard
European oak 1,120 4,980 Medium
Teak 1,070 4,760 Medium
Mango 1,070 4,760 Medium
Black walnut We build with this 1,010 4,490 Medium
Rubberwood 960 4,270 Medium
Black cherry 950 4,230 Medium
Genuine mahogany 900 4,000 Medium
Red alder 590 2,620 Soft
Eastern white pine 380 1,690 Very soft

North American values are averages from the USDA Wood Handbook (side hardness at 12% moisture content). Imported species are from The Wood Database. Individual boards can vary by 10–20% or more.

What the numbers mean for furniture

  • 1,400 lbf and up (very hard): maple and hickory shrug off everyday knocks. They're good for kitchen tables and busy family rooms, but they're harder to work, so they can cost more to build with.
  • 1,200–1,399 lbf (hard): white oak, red oak, ash, beech and birch are hard enough for dining tables, desks and chairs that see daily use.
  • 900–1,199 lbf (medium): walnut, cherry, teak and mahogany will dent more easily under a dropped pot or a pen pressed through paper. Their colour, figure and stability are why they've been prized for fine furniture for centuries.
  • 500–899 lbf (soft): alder dents readily, which suits rustic and painted pieces.
  • Under 500 lbf (very soft): eastern white pine marks easily. In a farmhouse or painted piece, the wear adds character.

What the Janka scale doesn't tell you

  • Scratch resistance: most scratches are in the finish, not the wood. A durable finish matters as much as the species.
  • Strength or stiffness: a shelf's resistance to sagging depends on stiffness, which doesn't track hardness closely. Walnut is softer than red oak but nearly as stiff.
  • Stability: how much a wood swells and shrinks with humidity is a separate property. Some of the hardest woods, such as hickory and beech, move the most. See our wood species guide.
  • How it will look in ten years: softer woods wear gracefully. Small dents in walnut or cherry blend into the patina; in a painted or high-gloss finish they stand out more.

Choosing by hardness

For a dining table that will see heavy family use, harder woods like oak and maple hide dents best. Walnut and cherry will gather small marks over the years, and many owners love how those marks become part of the patina. For bedroom furniture, bookcases and media consoles, which take far less impact, hardness matters much less than appearance and stability, so choose the wood you love. Whatever the species, use felt pads under décor, coasters under drinks and a placemat under anything hot or heavy.

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