Wood lasts decades when you control its environment, clean it gently, and match care to the finish on the surface. This guide shows you exactly what to do—and what to avoid—using museum-grade best practices translated for everyday homes.1,2,5
- Keep indoor relative humidity (RH) steady (target ~40–60% RH) and avoid rapid swings.2
- Limit sunlight/UV on wood and finishes; use shades/UV-filtering film where needed.3,4
- Clean dust with a soft cloth/brush + vacuum (HEPA if possible); save wet cleaning for when dry methods aren’t enough.6,7
1) Set the environment (the #1 factor)
Wood is hygroscopic: it expands as RH rises and shrinks as RH drops. That movement stresses joints and finishes. For homes and exhibits, many conservation references aim for a stable mid-range—roughly 40–60% RH—and emphasize avoiding fast day-to-day swings.2 The best thing you can do is monitor with a small digital hygrometer and use a humidifier/dehumidifier as seasons change.1,2
2) Block light and heat
Visible light and UV gradually discolour wood and degrade finishes (cracking, powdering, colour change). Use blinds, curtains, or UV-filter film on sunny exposures; move furniture out of direct beams.3,4,5 Keep pieces away from radiators and heat vents, which dry wood and stress joints.1
3) Choose safe cleaners (and know what “Safer Choice” means)
For routine care, dry dusting is preferred. If you must wet clean, use barely damp, then dry immediately. Avoid aggressive solvents unless you’ve tested a hidden spot and know the finish can tolerate it.5,7
About “Safer Choice”: It’s an EPA program that flags cleaning products formulated with safer ingredients; search their list if you need a general-purpose cleaner.9
4) Daily, weekly, seasonal checklist
- Daily: Use coasters/trivets; wipe spills immediately to prevent moisture “blush” in finishes.5,7
- Weekly: Dust with untreated soft microfiber or a soft brush alongside a vacuum nozzle (covered with mesh).6,12
- Seasonal: Re-check RH; shift layouts to minimize direct sun; inspect for loose joints before moving anything.1,2,5
5) Match care to your finish (oil, wax, shellac/lacquer, polyurethane, waterborne)
Finishes are the sacrificial layer that protects the wood. They don’t all react the same to water, solvents, or heat. When in doubt, start with the least aggressive method—and spot test.5,7
| Finish | How to Identify (quick) | Routine Care | Cautions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oil (e.g., linseed, tung) | Low sheen; you feel grain; water beads briefly then soaks | Dust dry. If deeper clean needed, barely damp wipe; dry immediately. Re-oiling only if you know original was oil and it needs it.5 | Over-oiling darkens wood and builds sticky films that are hard to remove.5 |
| Wax (as topcoat) | Soft gloss; fingerprints buff out with dry cloth | Occasional thin paste-wax coat; buff well. In between, dry dust.5 | Avoid frequent rewaxing; buildup attracts dust. Remove old wax carefully with mineral spirits if needed.5 |
| Shellac / Lacquer | Warm gloss; alcohol can mar shellac; lacquer softens with solvents | Dry dust. Very lightly damp only if tested safe. Protect from hot/steamy items—white “blush” can form.5 | Moisture causes white blush; heat opens pores and traps steam. Treat promptly or call a pro for re-amalgamation.5,16 |
| Polyurethane / Varnish | Hard, durable film; good water resistance | Dry dust. Spot clean with barely damp cloth; dry immediately.7 | Still vulnerable to prolonged standing water and UV over time.3,4 |
| Waterborne Acrylic/Conversion | Neutral color; low odor when new | As above—dry dust, minimal damp, quick dry.7 | Avoid harsh solvents; limit sun exposure to slow yellowing/fading.3,4 |
6) Prevent dents and rings
Dents and dings are really compressions of the wood fibers. Species with higher Janka hardness resist dents better—but any wood will mark under point loads or impacts, so use felt pads and avoid dragging items across tops.10
7) Troubleshooting common marks
- White rings/cloudy patches (from heat/steam): that’s moisture trapped in the finish—sometimes reversible with gentle heat (hairdryer on low, constantly moving) or time. Deep cases may need a finisher to “re-amalgamate” lacquer/shellac.5,16
- Dark water stains (through finish into wood): usually need professional bleaching/refinishing.7
- Sticky, smeary surfaces: often silicone/oil buildup—avoid silicone polishes; consult a pro before solvent cleaning.8,7
- Mold risk after a spill/flood: dry within 24–48 hours and fix the moisture source.12
8) Moving and placement
Before moving, remove loose shelves and hardware; lift—don’t drag. Check for loose joints so you don’t rack the carcass. Keep placement away from supply vents, radiators, and strong sun paths.5
Short video refresher
For a visual overview from a conservation lab, see the Smithsonian’s “Furniture Care and Handling” (about 28 minutes).11
FAQs
1) What humidity should I keep for wood furniture?
Aim for a stable mid-range around 40–60% RH and avoid rapid daily swings; stability matters more than a single number.2
2) Can I use a regular multipurpose spray?
Prefer dry dusting. If you need a cleaner, choose mildly formulated products and consider EPA Safer Choice listings; always spot-test first.7,9
3) How do I prevent white rings?
Use coasters and trivets; avoid hot, wet items on bare tops. Wipe condensation immediately. White rings are moisture trapped in finishes.5,16
4) Should I wax my furniture?
Occasional thin paste-wax on compatible finishes is fine; frequent rewaxing creates sticky buildup. Avoid silicone polishes.5,8
5) How do I clean intricate carving safely?
Use a soft natural-hair brush in tandem with a vacuum nozzle covered by mesh to capture dust without dragging it across the surface.6
6) Is sunlight really that bad indoors?
Yes—UV and visible light cause cumulative, irreversible damage to finishes and color. Filter/limit sun exposure.3,4,5
7) Do harder woods avoid dents?
Higher Janka hardness resists dents better, but any wood can mark under point loads. Use felt pads and avoid dragging.10
8) What if a room floods or a plant leaks?
Dry the area within 24–48 hours and correct the moisture source to prevent mold; call a pro if finishes lift.12
9) How often should I “deep clean” a finish?
Only when dusting/buffing no longer restores appearance—and after confirming the finish is stable. Wet cleaning should be conservative and infrequent.7
10) What’s the safest general rule if I’m unsure of the finish?
Use the least aggressive method: dry dust; if necessary, barely damp wipe and dry immediately after a spot-test. When in doubt, consult a conservator/finisher.5,7
References
- Canadian Conservation Institute – Basic care: furniture and wooden objects.
- AIC Conservation Wiki – Temperature & Relative Humidity for Exhibits.
- CCI – Agent of Deterioration: Light (UV/IR).
- U.S. National Park Service – Reducing Visible Light Exposure.
- CCI Notes 7/2 – Care of Furniture Finishes.
- NPS Conserve O Gram 7/5 – Dusting Wooden Objects.
- NPS Conserve O Gram 7/1 – Cleaning Wood Furniture.
- NPS Conserve O Gram 7/6 – Silicone in Furniture Waxes and Polishes.
- U.S. EPA – Safer Choice.
- The Wood Database – Janka Hardness.
- Smithsonian – Furniture Care and Handling (video).
- U.S. EPA – Mold, Moisture, and Your Home.
- AIC Conservation Wiki – Dust & Housekeeping.
- Smithsonian – Furniture Care & Maintenance (video with subtitles).
- CCI – Climate guidelines overview (stability & seasonal adjustments).
- Lowe’s – How to Remove Heat Stains from Wood (mechanism & steps).
