How to Choose a TV Stand

1) Pick the right width (and weight capacity)

A simple rule: choose a stand that’s at least as wide as your TV (wider looks cleaner and improves stability). Verify the stand’s stated weight capacity for the top panel exceeds your TV’s weight (you’ll find the TV’s weight on its spec sheet). If you’ll ever upgrade screens, leave 4–8" of extra width and headroom.

*Actual widths are based on 16:9 aspect ratio TVs (the most common). *Aim for a stand 4–8 inches wider than your TV on each side for better balance and cable access.

2) Get height right (eye level beats everything)

Your goal is a comfortable vertical viewing angle. A common home-theatre guideline is to keep your eyes roughly one-third of the screen height up from the bottom, and avoid tilting your gaze more than ~15° up or down.⁷ For general mixed viewing, a horizontal viewing angle around 30° (distance-to-size) works well; RTINGS recommends dividing viewing distance (inches) by 1.6 to estimate a TV size.² If you prefer a more cinematic feel, THX/SMPTE discussions suggest wider angles (≈30–40°), but personal preference varies.^{3, 15}

3) Plan storage around the gear you actually own

List your components and measure them (W×D×H). Typical sizes: game consoles are shallow; AV receivers are ~17" wide and 12–16" deep; center speakers can be 6–9" tall; many soundbars are 2–4.5" tall. Choose shelves that fit with ventilation (see next section).⁹

Sizes are typical ranges; check your specific model’s spec sheet.

4) Ventilation isn’t optional

Heat shortens component life. If you’ll house an AVR or game console in a cabinet, give it breathing room and an escape path for hot air. As one manufacturer guideline: allow about 6" above and 2" on either side of an AV receiver (more if you push volume).⁴ Look for stands with open backs, vent slots, removable panels, and wire pass-throughs.⁹

5) Safety: prevent tip-overs

Tip-overs still injure thousands yearly in the U.S. alone; anchoring matters.^{5, 8} Choose a stand with a deep, stable footprint. Use anti-tip straps or wall anchors, especially with kids or pets. If your stand offers a built-in back bracket, confirm it’s compatible with your TV’s VESA pattern.¹ Recent stability standards (e.g., ASTM F2057 adopted by CPSC) target tip resistance for clothing storage units—different category, but the same safety logic (anchoring) applies to living rooms with TVs and consoles.⁶

6) Materials & finishes (and real-world trade-offs)

• Solid wood: Durable, repairable, visually warm; heavier and pricier. Sensitive to humidity (allow seasonal movement).
• Wood veneer on plywood: Stable, lighter, looks premium at lower cost; edges can chip if poorly made.
• MDF with laminate: Most budget-friendly and consistent; least durable to repeated moves or moisture.
• Metal & glass: Slim look and strong; glass shows dust and fingerprints, and can reflect sound.

7) Cable management & ports

Look for a rear channel wide enough for power + HDMI + speaker wires with staggered portals on each shelf. If you use a soundbar or AVR, prioritize a TV or chain with eARC so TV apps can send lossless audio back to your audio gear over a single HDMI cable.¹⁰ When buying new HDMI cables, look for the certified labels (e.g., Ultra High Speed HDMI®) to ensure features like 4K/120 and low EMI where relevant.^{11, 14}

8) Quick measuring worksheet

• Room & seating: Distance from eyes to screen (inches): ____. TV size target (distance ÷ 1.6): ____".²
• Height: Ideal center-of-screen from floor: ____". Stand top should place center there without tilting.⁷
• Width: Stand ≥ TV width (or more for décor/speakers).
• Gear list + sizes: AVR, console, center speaker, set-top box, etc. Verify shelf openings and ventilation.^{4, 9}
• Safety: Anti-tip plan (straps or bracket).^{5, 6}
• Cables: Enough length for clean routing; certified HDMI where needed.¹¹