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A practical, step-by-step guide to evaluating materials, joinery, finish, stability, and certifications—so you can buy once and keep it for years.

Start with a 60-second scan

  • Materials: Solid hardwood where it matters (legs, rails); high-quality veneer over stable plywood is fine for wide panels.
  • Joinery: Dovetail drawers; mortise-and-tenon frames; avoid “staples + hot glue.”
  • Finish: Even sheen, no rough edges or drips; edges and undersides sealed.
  • Stability: Sit, rock, and twist lightly. No racking or wobble. For dressers, ask about ASTM F2057-23 compliance.9,10
  • Labels: TSCA Title VI compliance for any MDF/particleboard/plywood in the piece; NAF/ULEF cores are a plus.1,2,3

1) Decide: solid wood vs. veneer

Plain English: Veneer is a thin slice of real wood bonded to a core (often plywood). Quality veneer doesn’t mean “fake.” It lets makers use stable, wide panels that resist seasonal movement. The risk is cheap veneer (paper-thin, printed grain) over weak cores. If you see crisp, protected edges and a balanced layup (veneer on both faces), you’re usually safe. Consumer guides also note that balanced construction and proper cores outlast cheap laminates.12

Tip — Run your fingernail along an exposed edge. If you feel a sharp ridge, paper laminate, or lifting seam, skip it.

2) Check moisture and warping risk

Indoor furniture should be built from wood dried to roughly 6–8% moisture content to match indoor equilibrium and reduce cracking and warp.4,5 Ask for kiln-dried stock and store delivery packaging indoors before unboxing in humid or very dry conditions.

3) Evaluate joinery like a pro

Drawers

  • Dovetail corners (ideally “through” or “half-blind”).
  • Solid wood sides with finished interiors; bottoms captured in grooves.
  • Full-extension runners with stops.

Structural frames

  • Mortise-and-tenon at chair/table joints is a gold standard for strength.11
  • Corner blocks screwed and glued under chair seats/table aprons.
  • Minimal wobble when you sit and gently twist.

Independent hobby testing often finds mortise-and-tenon joints out-strengthening simple dowel joints; the difference isn’t infinite, but it’s meaningful for long-term use.11

4) Understand species & hardness

Hardness (Janka) is one concrete signal for dent resistance. For example, white oak ≈ 1,350 lbf vs basswood ≈ 410 lbf on the Janka scale.6 Hardness isn’t everything (design and finish matter), but it helps compare options.

Common Species Typical Use Janka Hardness (lbf) What it Means for You
White Oak Tables, chairs, shelving ≈1,3506 Great dent resistance; open pores show grain; takes stains well.
Hard Maple Tabletops, drawer sides ≈1,450–1,500 Very hard and smooth; takes clear finishes well; can blotch with stains.
Walnut Tables, casegoods ≈1,000–1,100 Moderate hardness; rich natural color; protect with a durable topcoat.
Basswood/Poplar Painted parts, secondary wood ≈300–540 Softer; dents easier; fine for internal parts and painted components.

Numbers are approximate and vary by source/lot; use them directionally alongside joinery and finish checks.

5) Inspect the finish (feel edges)

Film finishes (e.g., polyurethane) generally resist abrasion better than penetrating oils; oil-based poly tends to be tougher but ambers more and off-gasses longer, while water-based poly is clearer, lower-odor, and often needs more coats for similar build.13

Tip — Lightly drag a credit card along underside edges. Quality pieces seal edges and undersides; rough fuzz or raw edges hint at shortcuts.

6) Verify emissions & certifications (for MDF/plywood)

In the U.S., finished goods containing MDF, particleboard, or hardwood plywood must be labeled TSCA Title VI compliant (formerly CARB Phase 2). Prefer NAF (no-added-formaldehyde) or ULEF cores when available.1,2,3 For wood sourcing, FSC Chain of Custody helps trace certified material through the supply chain.7

7) Stability & safety (especially for dressers)

Ask whether clothing storage units meet ASTM F2057-23 stability requirements (now adopted by the CPSC). Anti-tip hardware and instructions should be included.9,10

8) Office & WFH pieces? Ask about standards

For desks, task chairs, and storage used as office furniture, ask whether items meet relevant ANSI/BIFMA standards (durability, safety) or the e3 sustainability standard.8

Helpful walkthrough video

For a quick visual of “what to look for” in drawers, tables, and chairs, this short video is helpful:

What to ask the seller

  • Moisture content at build: “What MC was the lumber dried to?” (Target ~6–8% for indoor furniture.)4,5
  • Joinery: “Which joints hold the base/frame together?” (Mortise-and-tenon beats staples.)11
  • Core & compliance (if panels): “Is the composite wood TSCA Title VI compliant? NAF or ULEF?”1,3
  • Finish: “What finish system, how many coats, and is the underside sealed?”13
  • Safety: “For dressers, does it meet ASTM F2057-23; do you include anti-tip hardware?”9,10
  • Warranty & aftercare: “What’s covered (finish checks, joint failures) and recommended maintenance?”
Pro move — Bring a pocket square, a small tape, and a penlight. Square the door/drawer reveals, measure case thicknesses, and look inside corners and undersides.

FAQs

What’s the quickest way to tell if wood furniture is well-made?
Start with joinery. Look for dovetail drawers and mortise-and-tenon frames. Then test drawers and doors for smooth, square movement. Scan edges and undersides to ensure they’re sealed, not raw.
Is solid wood always better than veneer?
No. High-quality veneer on a good plywood core can be more stable than wide solid boards. The weak point is cheap, thin veneer on poor cores.
What moisture content should indoor furniture have?
Aim for ~6–8% at build to match typical indoor equilibrium. This reduces seasonal movement and warping.4,5
Which woods are toughest for daily wear?
White oak and hard maple are dependable. On the Janka scale, white oak ≈1,350 lbf—hard enough to resist dents in everyday use.6
Do I need to worry about formaldehyde in furniture?
If a piece contains MDF/particleboard/plywood, it must be TSCA Title VI compliant in the U.S. Prefer NAF/ULEF cores when possible.1,2,3
What finish lasts the longest on tabletops?
Oil-based poly is typically the most abrasion-resistant but ambers more and cures slower; water-based poly is clearer and lower-odor but may need more coats for similar build.13
How do I check dresser tip-over safety?
Ask if it meets ASTM F2057-23 (adopted by the CPSC) and confirm anti-tip hardware is included.9,10
Are BIFMA standards relevant to home furniture?
For office chairs/desks/storage (including WFH), yes—BIFMA indicates durability and safety claims.8
Are visible knots or mineral streaks bad?
Not necessarily. They’re natural and often stable when properly selected and placed away from high-stress joints.
What’s a fair test in the showroom?
Sit, shift, and gently twist a chair; pull and push a table corner to feel racking; run every drawer fully; inspect undersides for sealing and solid corner blocks.

References

  1. EPA — Formaldehyde Emission Standards for Composite Wood Products (TSCA Title VI).1
  2. CARB — Consumer FAQ on Composite Wood (CARB Phase 2).2
  3. EPA — Small Entity Compliance Guide (TSCA Title VI).3
  4. Purdue Extension — Controlling Moisture Content in Stored Lumber.4
  5. Wagner Meters — Acceptable Moisture Levels in Wood.5
  6. The Wood Database — Janka Hardness Overview.6
  7. FSC — Chain of Custody Certification.7
  8. BIFMA — Standards & Descriptions (incl. ANSI/BIFMA e3).8
  9. ASTM — F2057-23 Clothing Storage Unit Stability.9
  10. CPSC — Adopts ASTM F2057-23 as Mandatory.10
  11. Woodgears — Joint Strength Testing (mortise-and-tenon vs dowel).11
  12. Consumer Reports — How to Find Quality Furniture.12
  13. The Spruce — Water- vs Oil-Based Polyurethane.13
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